Treatment guides from a clinic in Myeongdong, Seoul

Acne Scars

Marks left behind by acne fall into several distinct types, and they do not respond to the same treatment. The first job of a consultation is to sort out which types you have, and whether your acne is still active.

Dimpled texture across a pale plaster surface

What causes an acne scar

A scar forms when inflammation reaches deep enough to damage the structure under the skin. What you end up with depends on how the skin healed, and there is usually more than one pattern present at once.

Lost collagen leaves a depression. These are the pitted scars — some narrow and deep with sharp edges, some wider with a flat floor.

Fibrous tethering pulls the surface down from beneath. The dip has soft, sloping edges and the skin over it looks otherwise normal. This is a tethering problem, not a volume problem, which is why filling it rarely works for long.

Excess collagen produces a raised, firm scar. This is far more common on the jawline, chest and back than on the cheeks.

Colour without any change in contour is not scarring at all. Red marks are vessels that remain dilated after inflammation; brown marks are pigment left by it. Both fade with time, and both are often sold as scar treatment.

Acne that is still active is the one cause that has to be dealt with first. New lesions create new scars faster than a course can improve the old ones, and some inflammatory acne is treated with medication that a doctor prescribes and reviews. Scar work starts once the skin has been quiet for a while.

How to tell which cause you have

Light from the side shows contour; light from directly in front hides it. Photograph yourself near a window with the light coming across your face rather than towards it, and you will see far more than a bathroom mirror shows.

Two observations are legitimate at home. If a dip almost vanishes when you stretch the skin gently with two fingers, it is probably tethered. If it keeps its sharp edge, it is a fixed loss of collagen. And if a red mark pales when you press it and refills when you let go, you are looking at vessels rather than pigment.

A consultation examines the same things more carefully: the depth and edge of each scar, how much is tethering, skin thickness, whether the acne is genuinely finished, and how readily your skin pigments after inflammation. That last point changes which treatments are safe for you.

What addresses each cause

What is causing it What the treatment category is
Tethered, soft-edged rolling scars Release of the tethers, usually combined with collagen work — see Potenza and microneedling and resurfacing options
Sharp-edged pitted scars Fractional resurfacing, in a laser course
Thin, uneven skin around the scars Collagen stimulation with Rejuran, Juvelook or other skin boosters
Broad shallow depressions with volume loss Volume replacement with filler, as part of a wider plan
Red marks Vascular laser work, covered in the laser guide
Brown marks Pigment-targeting laser work and daily sun protection
Raised scars A dermatologist’s assessment first — these need a different approach from pitted ones

What does not help

Hydrating facials sold as scar treatment. A clinic skin care programme improves how skin looks and feels and does nothing to the depth of a scar. It is a reasonable addition and a poor substitute.

Toning lasers for contour. They work on colour. If your concern is a dip you can feel, a toning course will not change it.

Boosters alone for deep pitted scars. They improve the skin between scars, which helps the overall impression, but they do not lift a floor that is tethered down.

Filler in narrow, sharp-edged scars. There is nowhere for the product to sit, and the result is often a slightly puffy area with the scar still visible.

A single session of anything. Scar improvement is cumulative and a one-off is a deposit, not a treatment.

Realistic timeline and how many sessions

Expect a course of three to five sessions spaced four to eight weeks apart, and expect the assessment of whether it worked to come several months after the last one — collagen continues forming for a long while after the energy is delivered.

Resurfacing means genuine downtime: redness, swelling and flaking for several days, sometimes a week. If you are visiting Seoul briefly, plan the strongest session at the end of the trip rather than the start, and ask for a written summary of what was done so a clinic at home can continue.

What to ask at the consultation

  1. Which of my scars are tethered, and which are fixed loss of collagen?
  2. Is my acne settled enough to start, and what would you do if it flares during the course?
  3. How many sessions before we judge the result, and what does progress look like at the halfway point?
  4. Given how my skin marks after a spot, which treatments would you avoid on me?

FAQ

Can acne scars be removed completely?

Improvement is the realistic goal, not removal. A good course makes scars harder to see in normal light and evens the surrounding texture; it does not return the skin to how it was before.

Should I treat scars while I still get spots?

No. Active acne keeps producing new damage, and resurfacing inflamed skin can leave more marks than it clears. Acne is settled first, then scar work begins.

Are the red or brown marks scars?

Usually not. Flat discolouration left after a spot heals is a colour change in skin of normal thickness, and much of it fades on its own over months. Scars are changes in contour.

Is one type of treatment enough?

Rarely. Most plans combine a procedure that releases tethered scars, something that rebuilds collagen, and a separate approach for colour. They are different problems in the same face.